Sunday column
A Good Bowl of Borscht Can Change Your Life
The best bowl of borscht I ever tasted came from a punk house in the summer before I turned eighteen. At that point, I had already been on my own for nearly two years, drifting between whoever would take me in after my mother left town. I survived mostly on whatever vegan food I could scavenge or afford, eating a very simple, carb-heavy diet that kept me going but not much more.
Benjamin Ravenswood
Desk editor
Editor’s note
The full column continues in quiet type below.
Section
Sunday Broadsheet
The best bowl of borscht I ever tasted came from a punk house in the summer before I turned eighteen. At that point, I had already been on my own for nearly two years, drifting between whoever would take me in after my mother left town. I survived mostly on whatever vegan food I could scavenge or afford, eating a very simple, carb-heavy diet that kept me going but not much more.
When a planned place to live fell through, the older brother of a friend offered me a temporary place to stay. The arrangement was uncertain from the start—everyone expected the building would be shut down or cleared out soon anyway. The condition was simple: I could stay as long as I needed, but the house itself was on borrowed time.
The apartment sat in a Chicago neighborhood that was just beginning to be labeled “up and coming.” It wasn’t quite an illegal squat since rent was still being paid, but it wasn’t stable either. The building had mold, exposed wiring, and a general sense of collapse. Nine people lived in a cramped three-bedroom space. A band even rehearsed in the kitchen. No one really had proper beds because, as one resident explained, that would create hierarchy. Rent was unevenly split, with some people paying most of it while others contributed what they could. The entire place cost only a few hundred dollars a month, and everyone knew it wouldn’t last.
Early Memories of Borscht
Before that punk house experience, my memories of borscht were completely different. As a child, I had been served bowls of cold, thin, reddish soup by older Russian women who insisted I eat it. It was full of unfamiliar chunks and had a sourness that didn’t match my young taste buds, which were more used to processed cereal and simple American foods.
Coming from a family with Eastern European roots, many traditional dishes were part of my background—foods like stuffed cabbage, fish dishes, fried potato pancakes, and others that were tied more to survival than enjoyment. At the time, I rejected borscht completely and decided I would never like it.
The First Real Bowl That Changed My Mind
In the punk house, refusing food was not really an option. Much of what we ate came from discarded or donated produce, and sharing meals was part of survival. One day, I reluctantly took a bowl of borscht from a worn-out pot.
That first bite completely changed my perception. Instead of something bland or unpleasant, I experienced a deep, rich, tangy soup filled with beets, potatoes, garlic, and dill. It was vibrant and comforting in a way I had never associated with home cooking before.
That moment shifted something in me. It felt like the first time I truly understood how food could create a sense of belonging. Even though my living situation was unstable, that bowl made the place feel briefly like home.
Borscht Across the City Years Later
Many years later, I now live in a city where borscht is surprisingly easy to find in many different forms. In neighborhoods like Greenpoint in Brooklyn, I can find versions served with pierogi. In Queens, some places serve vegetable-heavy variations influenced by different Eastern European traditions. In warmer months, chilled versions with cucumbers and herbs appear in places like Ridgewood.
There are also long-standing institutions and delicatessens that continue serving their own interpretations. Some are light and broth-like, others are richer and more filling. In certain areas of Manhattan, especially neighborhoods with strong Eastern European or Jewish history, borscht is part of everyday food culture.
Small diners and specialty shops often serve it alongside other traditional dishes. Some people prefer it with sour cream, chives, or even additional side dishes to soak up the broth. Over time, I’ve come to see how widely the dish varies from place to place.
A Dish That Reflects Culture and Memory
Each bowl of borscht tells a slightly different story. Even places close to each other can serve versions that taste entirely different. Some are light and refreshing, others are dense and hearty. The differences come from regional traditions, personal memories, and family recipes passed down over time.
There is no single “correct” version. Instead, the dish reflects the identity of the people making it. It can be warm or cold, simple or complex, but it always carries a sense of place and history.
When someone asks where to find the best borscht, there is no definitive answer. It depends entirely on personal taste and experience. What matters more is how the dish connects to memory and comfort.
Why Borscht Stays With Me
Borscht is not just food—it is tied to memory, identity, and emotional experience. The bowl I had in that punk house remains the most meaningful version I’ve ever eaten, not because it was the most refined, but because of the moment in which it found me.
Since then, I’ve tried many versions in different cities, each with its own character. Some are excellent, some are simple, and some are unforgettable in unexpected ways.
What I’ve learned is that the value of borscht is not in ranking or comparison, but in how it connects to a specific time, place, or feeling. It is a dish that carries stories within it, whether served in a restaurant, a home kitchen, or a shared living space like that old Chicago apartment.
Even now, thinking about it brings me back to that time—when life felt uncertain, but a single bowl of soup made everything feel briefly grounded and warm.
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