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How to Make the Silkiest, Most Delicious Pudding (A Dessert That Deserves More Love)

Sunday column

How to Make the Silkiest, Most Delicious Pudding (A Dessert That Deserves More Love)

Usually, I’m the person who shows up to a casual gathering carrying a seven-layer cake with meticulously placed pomegranate seeds set into the glaze, using tweezers. I wouldn’t suggest trying to be that person. Instead, let’s talk about pudding.

A

Alexander

Desk editor

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Sunday Broadsheet

Usually, I’m the person who shows up to a casual gathering carrying a seven-layer cake with meticulously placed pomegranate seeds set into the glaze, using tweezers. I wouldn’t suggest trying to be that person. Instead, let’s talk about pudding.
At least the American, cornstarch-based version of pudding is as far from “tweezer-worthy” as it gets. But don't be fooled—it has plenty to offer. Pudding can be transformed into countless flavors, from rich chocolate or bourbon to lighter options like saffron, cinnamon, or jasmine, with just a few simple adjustments to the recipe.
Unlike its custard cousin, which relies heavily on egg yolks, pudding’s flavor is dominated by whatever additions you choose to highlight. And the texture? Irresistible. There’s something about a quick, smooth, and velvety bowl of pudding that’s hard to beat—especially when the potluck started an hour ago, and you’re still delicately placing pomegranate seeds.

The Science Behind Pudding

Making pudding involves two simple actions: First, you heat a few ingredients while stirring. Then, you allow them to cool, but don’t stir. That’s it. But what’s happening behind the scenes during these actions? Let's dive in.
Cornstarch, the thickening agent in traditional American pudding, consists of tiny, compact starch granules. When these granules are added to liquid, nothing happens. But as the mixture heats up close to boiling, these granules start to expand, absorbing water and breaking down their crystalline structure.
Starches, made up of amylose and amylopectin, disperse into the liquid as they heat. This process, called gelatinization, can be seen without a microscope. The liquid will suddenly thicken and turn translucent, which is a sign that the starches have fully gelatinized.
Once this happens, it's essential to leave the pudding alone. As it cools, the starches begin to form a network of polymers, turning the pudding into a solid. This second process is known as gelation. The amylose and amylopectin reconnect, forming a more spread-out lattice (retrogradation).
Consider the wonders of science next time you’re making pudding—though honestly, you can probably skip the scientific contemplation and still end up with a delicious result.

How to Make Any Flavor of Pudding

There are countless pudding recipes available, many of which are excellent. I don’t claim to have discovered the ultimate one. This recipe, inspired by Alice Medrich’s fantastic chocolate pudding, is more of a versatile blueprint. You’ll find various flavoring options, with clear instructions on how and when to incorporate them. But feel free to experiment—if you heat while stirring and cool while not stirring, you’ll get pudding no matter what. I prefer a more delicate texture, and I think this cornstarch amount gives a rich, satisfying consistency. But, of course, the real test of pudding is in the tasting.
Your Basic Pudding Base
Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 cups half-and-half (473 ml) OR 1 ¾ cups whole milk (414 ml) and ¼ cup heavy cream (59 ml)
1/3 cup (66g) sugar
2 tablespoons (17g) cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
Flavor Options:
For chocolate pudding (use both):
1/3 cup (28 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
3 to 4 ounces (85 grams to 115 grams) dark chocolate, finely chopped
To infuse:
2 black or jasmine tea bags
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, turmeric, or cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg or crushed saffron threads
3 pandan leaves, tied in a loose knot
2 tablespoons ground coffee
Liquid flavorings:
1 teaspoon vanilla or almond extract
1 teaspoon orange blossom or rose water
Up to 1/4 cup liquor or liqueur
Method:
If infusing, combine the half-and-half (or milk and cream mixture) with your chosen ingredient, heat to a simmer, and then steep for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture before continuing.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together sugar, cornstarch, salt, and cocoa powder (if using).
Add a splash of the milk mixture to the saucepan and whisk it into a smooth paste. Then, gradually stir in the rest of the liquid.
Heat over medium, stirring constantly, until the pudding thickens and begins to bubble—about 5 minutes. Continue stirring for another minute. Add the chopped chocolate if you're making chocolate pudding and stir until it melts and combines. Remove from heat.
Stir in any liquid flavorings you like. Pour the pudding into serving bowls and let it rest on the counter until it sets.
Serve chilled or at room temperature. Or, if you’re feeling selfish, disinvite your guests and enjoy it all yourself.
 

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